David Brockington's Tasting 
Notebook

Kozlak Porter

THE REVIEW REVUE OF SEVERAL MUCH BALLYHOOED BALTIC PORTERS
REVIEW #6

 

This is the sixth in a series of Baltic porter reviews. Initially I planned this series to end at five, but I was able to acquire this beer. I may also acquire one or two additional examples of this fascinating style, so look for irregular additional submissions on the style.

I sampled the first five in two days, and reviewed them to this august forum in January. I posted the reviews in rough order of strength (Saku, Carnegie, Sinebrychoff, Okocim, and Zywiec). Kozlak, like Okocim and Zywiec, hails from Poland. It shares an occupation of the stronger end of the style with those two beers, although it does not clock in at the 8.1% of Okocim or imposing 9.3% of Zywiec.

I sampled this beer from two different bottles on two days, the second tasting was used to test the validity of my first impressions.

Initial Impressions:

Kozlak poured gassy, yielding a rocky, somewhat dense tan head.

Nose:

This beer has a subtle maltines derived from the base malts, with caramel notes poking through as well.

Flavor:

Kozlak opens with a subtle maltiness, suggested by the aroma. A light toffee or caramel flavor follows, which slides into a restrained roasty and bitter finish. Underlying all the flavors is a light alcoholic warmth.

Final Analysis:

Kozlak is restrained in contrast to its Polish cousins that I've reviewed. While restrained can be good in a beer, in a Baltic porter I found it relatively unsatisfying. This is still a very good beer, but to me it is a notch down from Okocim or Zywiec.

Oddly enough, I concluded my review of Zywiec back in January by pondering the roots of this style. Indeed, I asked for a "detailed history of this style. I wonder if the legendary Russian imperial stouts exported from England influenced beer making in the Baltic region, or if an existing demand for such beers led enterprising English." I consider the notion that these beers were influenced by German Schwarzbiers, as expressed in a recent rfdb debate, improbable. Rather, I think the real question surrounds the preferences of the market. Did a market for strong, dark beers exist that the English brewers tapped into, or did the importation of imperial stouts from England make the market for local brewers?

Rating:


(Very Good on my 5-star scale)


Copyright 2000 by David Brockington,
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Seattle, USA
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